Sunday 10 March 2013

Da-doom!

February had been crazy-busy, what with overseas trips and Chinese New Year, and a shirt waiting to be completed before the 9th... (I was still working on hand-worked buttonholes on Chinese New Year's eve, and technically speaking didn't complete them till 3AM on first day of CNY itself, which really made me keenly appreciate a sewing machine that could do nice, workable, consistent buttonholes-- more on this later.)

So, the shirt. I was quite pleased with how it turned out. My first men's shirt ever, and I didn't render it unwearable, yay! :D I feel ever so thankful to have my mom babysit me through drafting, and explaining the basics of classic tailoring for men's clothings (ie like how the buttonholes are on the opposite side of ladies' wear! I would have happily sewn the interfacing on the right as I was always buttoning up on my right!) 






And more thread jams while hemming (2 layers of very soft Egyptian cotton & interfacing) -- the machine basically stalled and refused to sew over hems, and trying to push the fabric forward is to no avail. (I've resorted to begin sewing at the point after the thickest part of the hem, and use reverse stitching to stitch up the front bit,and praying very hard that it doesn't jam up, which it did obviously... Cos' not only did the machine not like anything thicker than 2 layers of fabric, it doesn't like doing reverse stitching, too... Push the reverse stitch knob and it jams without fail. Like clockwork, really.)

And the hand-worked buttonholes were surprisingly therapeutic to do (when the deadline to finish up wasn't breathing down my neck, that is) , and I'm glad that I chose to do them by hand over trying out the machine's manual buttonholes. Because, well, I made myself a blouse as well, and on my blouse I decided to take a chance with the manual buttonholes, and they fell apart when I cut the buttonholes open. It's either me, or the machine, I don't know, but it was awful to watch the buttonholes unravel right in front of me on CNY eve! (when I had another 2 or 3 hand-worked buttonholes to complete on the Husband's shirt, which is much more important to be done well than my own blouse, because, because he deserved a not sloppily done, new shirt for CNY! I was prepared to don a cutesy tee from Uniqlo if I couldn't get my blouse ready in time, heh :P) So, I did a haphazard rushed job of some really not-too-pretty hand-worked buttonholes on my own blouse to save the unravelled machined buttonholes... They don't look good, but they work, and that's definitely better than unravelled buttonholes.) So yeah, I don't want to imagine if this happened with the Husband's shirt. Horror, indeed.


If anyone's wondering why I don't simply bring it for buttonholes to be done professionally, well, I was quoted $4 per buttonhole, and they do not have capacity for me during the busy pre-CNY period. (And no guarantee of producing decent buttonholes either, I've not seen those works done by the shop(s) to be sure so there's always a risk. Just like when I brought the shirt in to have the sleeves serger-ed -- I don't own a serger T^T, the shop managed to mess up the checkered lines that I've taken care when cutting the fabric to ensure the seams match up nicely... It's irreversible, and it irked me.)

I know I rant a lot about buttonholes -- buttonholes are painful, seriously. Do not be mistaken though, I really do love making stuffs -- horrid buttonholes, thread jams et al. :D (just wished for a machine that would make me nice, consistent buttonholes! And keyhole buttonholes! I love those! :P)


Onto the subject title of this post, I've sewn on a Bernina. I'm a new owner of a pre-loved Bernina (for a ridiculously low price for the brand, from generous Uncle Freddy who has given me 5 Bernina presser feet that roughly cost 20-30 GBP each, one of which is even new in the original packaging). And I'm doomed. Doomed to the Bernina quality.



(Do ignore the rubbish binding -- that's not the correct way to sew on binding, and I'm only allowing myself to do it the lazy-arse way cos' it's a random patchwork to use up some scraps, and that it's a casual quick project for a sewing machine cover pockets).

But wow! Binding + 2 layers of quilting cotton, and the machine didn't even hesitate at the corners! No thread jams, not a single one! The reverse stitching is problem-free. The stitches are beautiful. AWESOME presser feet. I used to be sceptical of Bernina prices, of raves about its presser feet (and the prices of those feet), but no longer. They. Are. Awesome. No wobbly up and wobbly down with the usual snap-ons, it's SOLIDLY constructed and I'm beginning to think, worth the price tag. And, lo and behold! The six-step buttonhole work. No hiccup, no jams, no unravelling. There is basis for the hype and loyalty of the huge Bernina following overseas -- in spite of the huge prices, afterall. I'll admit to being thoroughly spoilt by the Juki industrial that my mom used to own -- the one that pierced through ANYTHING as if it's butter-- that I was almost distraught by the limitations of the few home sewing machines that I'd used initially, and then I used the Janome, while it served its basic purpose (of sewing forward) but is proving to be rather frustrating, to finally have a chance to sew on a Bernina! I am very, very, VERY impressed. If this is what a mechanical Bernina can do, I have high hopes for the computerised machines. In fact, I've been stalking the Bernina website for its computerised offerings. Ummmmm can I say the 710 is looking very, very attractive? (I wanted to say 820, but I wouldn't want the Husband to suffer a fit from the listed MSRP on the site if he decides to look it up... But 820, ummmmmmmmmmm... *WANTS*) Ok, I'll be really, really happy with a 530, really. :) I don't need branded bags -- no really, haven't owned one since I graduated from uni years ago, the one or two were purchased ages ago when I was young and foolish (no offense to dear friends who love them, see, I'm old and foolish for drooling over expensive sewing machines, yes? ^^)-- but an awesome sewing machine? YESSSSSSS.

And onto my next upcoming project -- I've been wanting to whip up a passport holder (twin passport holder) for my in-laws. :)

P.S Now that I'm so in love with the Bernina, and it's not given me any problems, I'm almost ready to return the Janome. A waste sitting around the corner when I'm always sewing on the Bernina, perhaps someone else could put it to better use than  I do. :)

Sunday 13 January 2013

Sew down memory lane

I promised pictures of my newly acquired sewing machine, so here goes:

It's a Janome 672, a mostly metal mechanical machine (that explains the weight), and comes with 22 pattern cams (which you'd change for a variety of different stitches - modern machines would already have those different stitches built into them and changing a stitch would require no more than a turn of the dial/press of a button^^).

Purple-pink dials where stitch length, width, and needle positions are adjusted.










 Adjusting tension.













When it comes to a new sewing machine (not necessary brand new, but new to the user), I like giving it a good run-through testing with the type of sewing that I do most of the time - which means, it must be able to complete a couple pieces of garments, prolly a quilt, and a couple of bags/purses satisfactorily, in order to earn that precious spot in my very limited sewing space. I've decided I wanted to make the Husband a couple of business shirts to kick start the testing process. I've never made men's shirts before, in fact, I've never made anything male before. And as I went along gathering sewing supplies for Project HBS (Husband's Business Shirts), I was reminded of the good ol' times when I was still little (nah, I was a teenager then, hardly what anyone would consider 'little' ;D) and tagged behind my mom when she went shopping for sewing supplies^^

This old shop in Ang Mo Kio is where you can find those coffee pots that Grandma used to brew morning coffee in, and traditional claypots. (Can't attest to the quality of the claypots, I've not tried the ones available now to compare them to the ones of yesteryear.)







And I found this there! :P Great for pressing pieces of fabrics, if only the legs come crossed instead of horizontal... (My dad made one for my mom many, many years ago, and it is, obviously, lost in the numerous times we've moved in recent years.)
Another old shop in Ang Mo Kio selling sewing notions and craft supplies (Tulip crochet hooks, reasonably priced yarns, cross stitch patterns, embroidery threads, etc).









I brought the Husband to People's Park Complex to choose the fabrics that he prefers (cos' we all know he's a fussy man yea :D), and I'm all set to draft and sew :P

Pictures! (I'll spare you the gory details of the WIP...)





















































The guy from the fabric shop gave me what's remaining on his bolt of blue fabric (free!) cos' he couldn't sell what's left after cutting my required yardage (ie barely enough for a lady's short-sleeve shirt, and definitely not enough for a guy's shirt), however it seemed as if I could have another short-sleeves shirt for him from the fabric after cutting the long-sleeve, though it's not quite conducive for tucking in... ^^;; (You know, half an inch here, 3/8 of an inch there...)














Halfway through sewing the short-sleeves, the light bulb in my machine fused and I've got to pull out the solar-powered LED work lamp to see what I'm doing... I'll say I don't like the light on the machine so much, it heats up fast and the side plate is hot to touch since the body of the machine is mostly metal.



Completed the short-sleeves shirt yesternight, fitted the Husband, and other than being a wee bit shorter than what I would like if I have just an inch more fabric available, it fits him rather well^^ No button holes as at time of post since no tailoring/alteration shop that I asked today would help me sew button holes, and my machine can't do automatic button holes - it's manual using zigzag stitches... Which I wouldn't mind so much if it's just ONE button hole. But for 6-7 button holes? No way, I can't live with inconsistent button holes, especially in a contrasting thread ← the Husband requested for decorative contrasting button holes.



Collar for the long-sleeves - ripped out the first one cos' I didn't like the height of it... (I really should stop overthinking and spare myself the extra work = = But I do really like this one better!^^)





Umm, 80% completed with half-done sleeves^^ Okay, no, let's put it at 70%... it still doesn't have button holes! (and the hemming...)














Conclusion:

Has the machine passed the shirts test? Hmm, not quite.

Straight stitching, it does fairly well. Beautiful straight stitches, not good enough to give the industrial Juki a run for its money (I know I'm not comparing apples to apples, but the industrial Juki is the only machine I played with long enough to do a comparison - the other Singer that I own, don't get me started on that one...), but good enough that I won't nitpick.

Reverse stitching, not so good. Mainly cos' reverse stitches are done by pushing a knob on the stitch length dial (that's the second dial from the top in the first picture, if anyone's wondering), and if I'll be honest with myself, I don't like pushing that knob, so much so that I resorted to lifting the presser foot lever to do my back stitching instead of pushing that knob.

Light bulb. Fused within half a day of use. It's an easy fix, but I just had to go what-the... And the heat.

Hemming through some layers of fabrics and interfacing (not thick at all, at least not in my books...), not good at all. It refused to move the first couple attempts at hemming the short-sleeves shirt. Changed a foot, forced it through, and it finally did its work.

Button holes. Hmm... ... ...

I'm liking the weight and stability of the machine (being mostly metal it holds its weight rather well), and the quality of straight stitches. But that's about it. I might test it out with a simple purse after I'm done with the shirts, but I'm leaving out quilting the double wedding rings quilt - I'm not so sure that it'll quilt beautifully, and this is supposed to be my wedding quilt (didn't have time and the right machine to complete it for over a year... = =) so I'm not gonna risk it.

I learn from working on this machine that I really do want and need a Juki F600 (dual LED lights! How awesome for failing eyesight like mine!) and/or Juki TL-98P. They'll be a wonderful team, I'm sure.


Tuesday 1 January 2013

Welcome, 2013!

On the last day of 2012, came showers (cats and dogs, really, Yishun town should be entitled to some special rebate for contributing significantly to Singapore's water reserve -- for pouring when every other town across the Island is pouring and for pouring when no other town is pouring...),

and bruises. ("And I've got the pictures to proooooove it to you~" <- Gosh, you know you're home-grown and truest of all blues when the first thing that popped to your mind is this, albeit with more subtle nuances... Ref: [in]famous local podcast)

On my upper left thigh, for doing a great job in assisting to prop my 'new' sewing machine up when both my arms were trembling to grip on tight to the hard case handle that came with the machine, in my hour-long struggle to lug the machine back home (and, if I must admit, an entirely over-ambitious feat on my own...). And it usually only takes me 10 to 15 minutes to get home, if I'm without a 20kg load that is. No, really, it can't just be 10kg... I can deal with a bag of rice and a tub of cooking oil just fine... = =|||


But I'm getting ahead of myself, ain't I? So! The lovely day of 31 December 2012 began with the Husband sleeping way past the hour that any self-respecting salaried employee should wake up for work, and we decided to enjoy half the day together rather than think about some terribly nasty aspects of the Job. Made a trip to Daiso (no, dear Husband, the crayons are NOT for cooking! I would find a use for them, promise... So you can kindly stop laughing at my shiny new box of crayons, thankyouverymuchly!), spun two rounds in Spotlight around the quilting fabrics area (grabbed two bolts, saw ten persons in the Q, put the bolts back), had a quick snack with the Husband before he hurried off to a friend's wedding banquet across the causeway -- Congratulations WS! ^0^

I was feeling so blah by the weather, cos' I really do Want Need. My. New. Sewing. Machine. Today!  It's the last day of 2012, it's a pressie for myself, I've already waited 3.5 days after purchasing it on Friday, so, so... So! (Took a loop route bus to have a look at the progress of the WIP plot of land that is to be my future home with the Husband+future children [can I have four....?] +parents, and the divine powers from above must sense the grievous desire from me should I not be able to bring my machine back home today, cos' the rain slowed! ^0^) And there I was, wrestling with a really, really heavy machine up and down the stairs, and up and down the bus on my way home (a Janome 672 I believe, second-hand, sews beautifully when I test drive it at Uncle Freddy's shop, and comes with 22 pattern cams -- I've never played with cams before! Neither has my mom, the previous machine before my current Singer was a Juki industrial -- the Juki is one powerful machine, though it only sews a straight stitch but it sews the BEST straight stitch, and it's FAST, so fast that I boggled at the speed the home Singer machine sewed at initially... I really miss that machine... Whoever bought it third-hand from the mechanic that we sold it to, I hope you're treating it well! It's not fancy, neither is it expensive compared to the new fancy home machines of modern times, but it's the machine that my mom worked with for almost 30 years. It's the machine I learned sewing on when I was 13. Sometimes it's not about a tangible price tag, but rather the shared memories. One day, hopefully, I might be able to own another one...).

Finally, it's home.

(Expect more pictures in the following two days ^0^ I take craptastic photos though, it's times like this that I wish I know how to take better photos, or own a better camera than the handphone camera *lol*)






To showcase my craptastic photography skills (or lack thereof), I've snapped a couple pictures of a music box (a sewing machine-shaped music box, how cute is that!) that Uncle Freddy gifted me and my mom ^0^ -- great service, sound advice, nice guy!(The lugging around a machine is entirely my stubbornness, to MUST have the machine right that moment despite Uncle Freddy's many attempts to convince me that it'd be an arduous feat and a much better idea for him to deliver it to me... ^^||)

The box^^


^0^



(Please pardon the clutter... I swear there's some sort of organisation amidst the mess...)



Details of a pattern book and shears! ^0^



More details! ^0^



The foot pedal moves as if it's sewing -- Awww
too cute! I love it!











Thanks Uncle Freddy for the lovely gift, and the wonderful advice. I would not have known the beauty of an (very?) aged, used machine if not for your recommendation. To be honest, I wasn't even considering a Janome -- I wanted a Juki! (I still want one, maybe in future when a unit on that WIP plot of land becomes finished goods, and is delivered to me and the Husband...)

More on that in next post, along with pictures of the machine itself ^^

A quick recap of what I managed to complete in the recent one-two months:














Some mistakes at the last few rows... Ugh! Far from being done though, it still needs decorative embroidery and a bag lining ^^










Craptastic hand embroidery, I have since unpicked those awful Portuguese stem stitches and plan to try Japanese stem stitches next, hoping that it'd look less disgraceful...

(Hmm, I've also sewed a piece of lingerie for my first year wedding anniversary with the Husband, but let's just say I'm not gonna post the pic of it here...)




Happy 2013!